デイブ・グラハムのインスタグラム(dave_graham_) - 2月22日 02時29分

Squalo Bianco [8B+] ☑️ On the last day of January I was very pleased to make an ascent this brilliant @giuliano_cameroni line 💎🙌🏻 After a few sessions climbing on it when there was still a ton of snow and the ending was all wet, I thought I may sneak in a rather quick ascent of this massive rig since I felt pretty good on all the moves climbing up to the lip, but little did I know a small war was about to ensue 😅 When it finally dried off I checked the ending out and realized that the move going to the final sloper felt particularly hard. I started making tries from the start and quickly arrived to the two final crimps, but my hands were completely numb and couldn’t even move 🥶 It was usually around -3 C down at the boulder, and as there’s zero sun in deep winter the rock felt even colder, which I’m sure was not ideal for such a long boulder. Despite the cold, I felt confident, and returned for another round, but was fully rejected again on the same move on my two best tries, numb hands and super pumped 😫 I decided to reconsider my beta and find a less powerful solution, which existed; a dicey heel hook which let me stick the sloper with less power, and also vowed never to return with such brutally cold weather. I waited for a warmer day, and about a week later there was some freakishly warm Föhn, bringing temperatures up to around 15 deg 🤯 I started making tries, but began falling over the first half of the climb, which felt definitively harder than when it was freezing cold 🙄 I started getting frustrated by the huge change in friction and the sensation that I was climbing poorly and with too many expectations, so I resigned the session as a failure, and gave a few hail mary tries just for the hell of it. Somehow, most likely as I lowered the internal pressure, I managed to make through the first half, stick the sloper, hold it together when my foot slipped afterwards, and keep my shit together on the mantle 🙌🏻 I collected myself in the no hands stance for a moment, committed to the friction slab, a serious no fall zone, but felt focused and went into cruise mode 🙇🏻‍♂️ @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @petzl_official @climb_up_officiel @frictionlabs

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