デイブ・グラハムのインスタグラム(dave_graham_) - 6月6日 02時46分

Celestite [8C+] FA 💎 On March 28 I climbed my main objective of the season in Bavona, a brilliant technical masterpiece on a river polished overhang, attacking a subtle feature trending diagonally out a beautiful wall 🫶🏻 The project was obvious, and had been tried before, but with a frontal approach, yet with my new perspective of such features and the possibility to find solutions with kneebars, a technique I’ve improved a lot in my climbing, I had a ton of new ideas, especially to approach the climb upside down. In the initial sessions finding a functional sequence was daunting, the feet were terrible and extremely hard to trust, and the slow-motion style of movement was so diverse from all the other climbs I had tried. Somehow, I began making rapid progress. The beta I discovered worked really well for me, and rather quickly I was trying to link the two main sections on their own. Confused about its breakdown, I saw the climb as a tense 8a+ directly into an even more tense 8b+, but not less. After working on the dodgy landing, a set of logs bridging over a pond, and cleaning the highball outro, I started making tries from the start. I approached this problem with zero expectations every session as I really wanted it, but the style of climbing required patience, balance, and a laser sharp focus, hard things to bundle all together; there was no just “trying hard”😵‍💫 After 3 sessions trying to progress from the start, always making it a move farther, in a magical moment, after a crazy fight, I found myself standing at the top. Astonished to have not drawn out the process, a habit of mine, my first thought was to question its difficulty. Could I climb something of this level that quickly? If it had taken another ten days of making mistakes, I’d have zero hesitation with the proposal, yet, I often doubt my strengths and abilities. If compare it to all the lines I’ve climbed, it seems like where it belongs, unless I missed some crucial easier beta. I’m very proud of my climbing on this one, it’s majestic, climbs beautifully, and is an amazing addition to the valley 🙌🏻 The right exit, adding a huge highball prow ~ 8b will be the goal next winter🫡

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