デイブ・グラハムのインスタグラム(dave_graham_) - 12月20日 04時27分


Cassim [8C] FA ⚔️ On November 2 I climbed a project of mine in the Ali-Baba cave in Rodellar 🥳 A true sit- start beginning at the base of the cave (in my opinion the most logical and integral line to do) it adds a technical, yet quite powerful 8A/+ boulder of 9 moves riddled with tensiony knee-scums directly into a super tricky and tense 8B 😅 The problem gives zero respite, cruising through crimps, pinches, and strange blocks, with a definitive crux revolving around a super tricky kneebar which only works to due a complicated array of toe-hooks 🤪 The boulder continues into the ending of Ali Baba, topping out the classic exit to the left. With around 35 hand moves, and many more foot moves, the level of resistance really adds to the difficulty, even though the moves get less difficult towards the ending, the super steep angle and lack of rests creates a rather unique challenge of not getting to exhausted and maintaining tension all the way until the final rest 😬 As I haven’t opened many hard boulders on limestone I’m less experienced grading problems on this type of stone, but it took me a considerable amount of tries over 10 days, and I had already put in about 10 sessions back in 2020. It felt way harder then long blocs in Switzerland I climbed recently, so lets what future repetitors think 🤔 I would go as far as saying it’s a style the suits me really well, as most of the cruxes are solved with your knees, and for those who may say its a route because it’s so long, I would disagree. Definitely a modern boulder problem, it happens to have a lot of moves not for its length or proportions, but more so because the intricate style of climbing 🙌🏻 I was always enchanted by this left flank of the cave, which from far away may not look to inspiring, but with a closer look the angle of the wall and hold-set is fuckin mega, and the fact its fully natural adds even more fuego 🔥 I was close to sending a harder line that I am super keen to go back and finish off. It seems to be a full grade harder in difficulty, and I could only manage to link it in two parts for this season 😵‍💫 Huge thanks to the homies in Rodellar and @alizee_dufraisse for the support 😘


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2022/12/20

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