デイブ・グラハムのインスタグラム(dave_graham_) - 1月25日 03時42分

Xenotime [8B+] FA ⚔️ Super fun new rig in Cogul I managed to climb back in early December 🙌🏻 This is an old project from 2009 I tried with homies @jon_cardwell and @ナーレ・フッカタイバル , and after quite a few days of effort, we never found a functional method for the crux sequence. Ever since, the boulder lingered in the back of my mind. I found myself constantly trying to remember it’s holds and dimensions, grasping at an answer: what was the solution to this seemingly obvious puzzle 🤯 ? The weather was freezing in Siurana so I decided to go check it out again, and was pleasantly surprised by the rock quality and aesthetics of the climb, even if it’s quite short and not even an actual boulder, but a piece of cliffband. Its a simple game: grab the arete, try to get you feet off the lower roof, and have them arrive on an opposing feature way up and right, then escape to the jugs with a subtle kneebar. After a few days of experimentation, I realized a foot hold up and left was my only doorway to a functional sequence. I wasn’t strong enough to just hold a pure cut into foot-stab, nor cooirdinated enough to do the sick foot-swing to blind ninja-kick, so my bizzare foot-cut tap-roof to rotate to foot-stab seemed like the ticket 😅 After injuring my finger in the gym I was super unsure of what I could climb on, but upon basic inspection, nothing on this thing seemed to hurt. This was a big relief and a HUGE boost to my mindstate and motivation 😀 The fact I could actually try hard on something, and that I was most likely less hurt than I had assumed, was massive. During an awesome session with amigo @ignaciomulero I battled it out for a few hours with the strange friction on the slopey arete and the mega-sharp left hand poc-crimp, and eventually somehow gripped and balanced through the bizzare foot-swoop, didn’t drop the kneebar, and completed the puzzle 😂 Its a fast 5-move boulder in essence, where you cover a lot of ground despite the lack of moves, but its super high quality ultimately, and I highly recommend it!! @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @petzl_official @frictionlabs @sendclimbing @tensionclimbing

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