チェルシー・ルーズさんのインスタグラム写真 - (チェルシー・ルーズInstagram)「THE BATTLE IS OVER -   But I didn’t send.  Until yesterday, it had been 6 years since I’d been on Thanatopsis. In that time I’ve undergone two surgeries, and have grown up immensely. I have changed. But so had the route.  Plan A was to work on this route - become reacquainted, and hopefully begin to make redpoint attempts. But word had gotten to me that a hold had broken on it recently and that nobody has made an ascent since. I created plan B just in case, but I really wanted to assess the situation myself. Yesterday that’s exactly what I did.   A large jug at the second bolt is what has broken - it’s left two decent flat holds behind. But the scar of the break has been seeping for over a month now, leaving those two holds slimy. The break also feels to have left behind a much harder 2-3 bolt sequence than before.   Yesterday was monumental for me. I cried while on the route. Then I came down, and I cried more. I wasn’t sure where the tears were coming from - perhaps the fact that I’ve grown so much since I was last on it and I was finally able to acknowledge it in its truth. I no longer liked Thanatopsis - yes, the bottom is harder, and wet and slimy, and I wasn’t doing moves as strongly as before, BUT I also didn’t think the climbing was entertaining to me. With that, I felt a piece of guilt creep up - guilt around having so many of you around the country supporting and cheering me on - and making the decision that I don’t want to dedicate time to that route anymore. Then I had a whirlwind of anger, sadness, and confused feelings that I will work through and share with you another time...  This route has had significance in my life - it helped me find purpose and put a schedule on a blank calendar that was previously filled with competitions and strict training schedules to follow suit. It helped me realize that perhaps I was capable of sending 5.14b, which I have since done. Over six years later, it is further helping me realize that I wasn’t choosing routes for myself back then and that I’ve done a lot of work to become independent within this sport.   So my friends. Ive walked away from that chapter, but I can’t wait to share what IS going down at the RRG!」11月14日 3時01分 - chelseanicholerude

チェルシー・ルーズのインスタグラム(chelseanicholerude) - 11月14日 03時01分


THE BATTLE IS OVER -

But I didn’t send.

Until yesterday, it had been 6 years since I’d been on Thanatopsis. In that time I’ve undergone two surgeries, and have grown up immensely. I have changed. But so had the route.

Plan A was to work on this route - become reacquainted, and hopefully begin to make redpoint attempts. But word had gotten to me that a hold had broken on it recently and that nobody has made an ascent since. I created plan B just in case, but I really wanted to assess the situation myself. Yesterday that’s exactly what I did.

A large jug at the second bolt is what has broken - it’s left two decent flat holds behind. But the scar of the break has been seeping for over a month now, leaving those two holds slimy. The break also feels to have left behind a much harder 2-3 bolt sequence than before.

Yesterday was monumental for me. I cried while on the route. Then I came down, and I cried more. I wasn’t sure where the tears were coming from - perhaps the fact that I’ve grown so much since I was last on it and I was finally able to acknowledge it in its truth. I no longer liked Thanatopsis - yes, the bottom is harder, and wet and slimy, and I wasn’t doing moves as strongly as before, BUT I also didn’t think the climbing was entertaining to me. With that, I felt a piece of guilt creep up - guilt around having so many of you around the country supporting and cheering me on - and making the decision that I don’t want to dedicate time to that route anymore. Then I had a whirlwind of anger, sadness, and confused feelings that I will work through and share with you another time...

This route has had significance in my life - it helped me find purpose and put a schedule on a blank calendar that was previously filled with competitions and strict training schedules to follow suit. It helped me realize that perhaps I was capable of sending 5.14b, which I have since done. Over six years later, it is further helping me realize that I wasn’t choosing routes for myself back then and that I’ve done a lot of work to become independent within this sport.

So my friends. Ive walked away from that chapter, but I can’t wait to share what IS going down at the RRG!


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