コンラッド・アンカーさんのインスタグラム写真 - (コンラッド・アンカーInstagram)「January 1993 : Photograph by Jay Smith Although this looks like winter, the image was taken during the austral summer of 1992/ 93. Jay “No Spray” Smith, Steve Gerberding and I had spent a miserable night in bivouac sacs as a humid storm rolled in and quashed our summit bid. We had spent the season trying a direct line on the east Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia. On our summit bid we were shut down by the proverbial “steel glove” of wind and snow. We didn’t have internet based weather forecasts. Or the internet for that matter. Our summit attempt was based on what the Thommen barometer / altimeter was telling us, if the bits of ice in Laguna Torre were blown northward, if we saw a condor circling and if the camp fox walked through the little sand patch next to our tent. The latter two indicators were superstitious. Perhaps the placebo effect instills confidence? Whatever it takes. Jay is a survivor. His climbs, all bad to the bone, span the globe. The lessons he shared with me, passed on from the late Jim Bridwell, helped define how I would interpret the mountains. Be calm under pressure, dial one pitch at a time and it could always be worse. Thanks Jay for the years of friendship. #highandwild #climbing #bivouac #finealpineadventure @thenorthface」11月20日 22時11分