シャウナ・コックジーのインスタグラム(shaunacoxsey) - 1月18日 02時58分

I’ve had multiple finger injuries during my climbing career. However, my most recent finger injury is the worst I’ve had yet. I have ruptured about 80% of the A2 pulley on my right ring finger. So... I wanted to share some of my rehab. I’m still not weighting my hand but I have started doing a few bits. These are great for rehab and also for injury prevention. •
Here’s some info from my Physio therapist Paul Houghoughi. “Tendon glides without the band are great to prevent the joint capsules around each knuckle from stiffening up whilst maintaining healthy gliding of the unloaded tendon through the injured/healing pulley. This stops the pulley from being overloaded in the future and helps minimise adhesions between tendon and the healing pulley. Using the band is to make sure the muscles which bend and straighten the fingers glide independently of the ones which stabilise the wrist. This is important when there is swelling in the lining of the forearm muscles as this can go on to develop into tenosynovitis.”
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#comebackstronger #rehab #prehab #iwanttogoclimbing

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