アダム・オンドラさんのインスタグラム写真 - (アダム・オンドラInstagram)「Huge congratulations to @steghiso making the second ascent of Change 9b+!  Change is the first route that I bolted in Flatanger cave in Norway, on my very first visit of this cave in 2012. It meant a lot to me. It was the first route I bolted outside my home climbing area, I was just out of high school, having sabbatical year and feeling like I had all the time in the world to finally establish my own routes and potentially, push the sport climbing grade a notch higher up to 9b+. Being in this massive cave with almost no routes, it was really difficult to decide where to start bolting. I chose this massive line whose line is pretty obvious higher up but it has different possibilities to start, none of them very obvious. I ended up choosing rather obscure, but the most direct start because I absolutely loved the “roof dihedral” section with the infamous gaston and drop-knee moves. Which is the first crux of Change.  Possibly, this section had discouraged all potential candidates for the repetition, until this year when Stefano arrived with a clear goal in his mind. Stefano figured out a little different way thrugh the first crux, possibly equally hard, just a little less messed up taking a huuge swing on bad gaston-two-finger pocket.  And Stefano as it seems, once he sets a goal, always meets that goal. His dedication, drive and passion just gets him there, no matter how hard he has to try. Just like me in 2012, he ran out of time on his summer trip and had to return in the autumn. Unlike me, he sent it really quickly on the second trip whereas I struggled a lot with doubts and bad weather in the autumn 2012. Super impressive effort Stefano!」9月30日 0時07分 - adam.ondra

アダム・オンドラのインスタグラム(adam.ondra) - 9月30日 00時07分


Huge congratulations to @steghiso making the second ascent of Change 9b+! 
Change is the first route that I bolted in Flatanger cave in Norway, on my very first visit of this cave in 2012. It meant a lot to me. It was the first route I bolted outside my home climbing area, I was just out of high school, having sabbatical year and feeling like I had all the time in the world to finally establish my own routes and potentially, push the sport climbing grade a notch higher up to 9b+.
Being in this massive cave with almost no routes, it was really difficult to decide where to start bolting. I chose this massive line whose line is pretty obvious higher up but it has different possibilities to start, none of them very obvious. I ended up choosing rather obscure, but the most direct start because I absolutely loved the “roof dihedral” section with the infamous gaston and drop-knee moves. Which is the first crux of Change. 
Possibly, this section had discouraged all potential candidates for the repetition, until this year when Stefano arrived with a clear goal in his mind. Stefano figured out a little different way thrugh the first crux, possibly equally hard, just a little less messed up taking a huuge swing on bad gaston-two-finger pocket. 
And Stefano as it seems, once he sets a goal, always meets that goal. His dedication, drive and passion just gets him there, no matter how hard he has to try. Just like me in 2012, he ran out of time on his summer trip and had to return in the autumn. Unlike me, he sent it really quickly on the second trip whereas I struggled a lot with doubts and bad weather in the autumn 2012. Super impressive effort Stefano!


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