ウド・ノイマンさんのインスタグラム動画 - (ウド・ノイマンInstagram)「OTD, 15 years ago - the last problem of the Bouldering World Championships in Munich, a nice comparison between an over the decades refined old-school approach and the emerging new-school climbing. As you can see the climbing was more sequential than nowadays, where the challenge often is to find YOUR ideal position and ways yourself. With this kind of setting, contact strength is the deciding factor, not only for topping a problem, but also for spending less time climbing, as in this example. (I vaguely remember that when in 2005 I measured the time Salavat spent on the wall in these finals and compared them to Kilian’s it was less than half.) Salavat Rakhmetov was the epitome of contact strength and I think to this day is still unsurpassed in this regard. Salavat was brought by his older brother Kayrat to competition climbing in 1984, when 17 years old. He was a successful track and field competitor, mainly running middle- distances, so no stranger to hard training. From 1989 on, the 2 brothers competed in ALL international climbing competitions (if they didn’t have problems with getting visas, etc.), supporting their family with their price money. Salavat later said that his mindset, to take pleasure in climbing process, instead from only the result, saved him from burn-out over these more than 2 decades of competing. As many Russian climbers, the brothers were shining examples of self-efficacy, they would for example travel with a training board which was folding and could be fixed in any doorway. With his physical shape at its peak, 15 years ago Salavat just had to get his "psychological mood right before the start, correctly and in time to warm up, during start to try to think only about of the lines, to read them correctly and send first go.“ And he did! #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #climbingperformancecoaching #bouldering」7月6日 2時41分