ウド・ノイマンさんのインスタグラム写真 - (ウド・ノイマンInstagram)「some thoughts on climbing talent. a) OTD, 15 years ago, Munich climbing world championships 2005 - Left: Tomáš Mrázek defending his title as lead climbing world champion, Right: Akiyo Noguchi than 16 years old (born May 30, 1989) in the lead climbing finals 2005. While it is not the same climb or even position, this comparison exemplifies the development from tension to alignment as a key indicator for efficient climbing. On the left Tomasz Mrazeks left arm is not aligned with the hold, a strategy that is only possible on positive holds. On the right Akiyo Noguchi finds perfect alignment under the hold, as it is needed on nowadays sloping holds. Nobody else climbed like Akiyo back than, yet from nowadays perspective one could argue that Akiyo had a future-proof way of positioning herself already in 2005! b) Ja-in Kim in the boulder finals of Munich 2005, than 16 years old (born 11 September 1988). It is easy to imagine parents or coaches taking these successes, to make finals in such an early age, as an indicator of exceptional talent in this discipline and draw the conclusion that the athlete should focus only on this discipline. Fortunately that doesn’t seem to have happened in Akiyo’s and Ja-In’s case as they had most of their later successes in the other discipline, Akiyo in bouldering and Ja-In in lead. c) Salavat Rakhmetov, than 38 years old (* 17. Dezember 1967), at the peak of his prowess. Will it be enough to prevail against the young guns like Kilian Fischhuber? Let’s see what happened in the bouldering finals, next saturday, 15 years ago. Stay tuned! Some conclusions (for now): All sports, clubs and federations are interested in early talent identification and use more or less sophisticated test batteries including anthropometric, physical and motor performance measurements. Comparably little is researched in terms of character traits and cognitive function. This seems to be an oversight when trying to identify talent for a problem solving activity like climbing. Another issue is that climbing has developed in a way that assumptions based on current performances of say, sixteen year olds, is not very helpful. #climbingperformancecoaching」7月2日 16時07分