ウド・ノイマンさんのインスタグラム動画 - (ウド・ノイマンInstagram)「We have to talk about falling and landing. As boulder moves become more and more acrobatic, injury risk from unexpected falls increases. Higher competence in falling and landing also leads to better performance, as you are not held back by your fear and uncertainty of a move’s consequences. We know that better climbers show faster anticipatory postural adjustments before athletic maneuvers. Sharper senses allow you to “pre-program” muscle activation patterns, so that you can safely perform dynamic maneuvers with cognitive, temporal and spatial constraints. Here is what you can do: 1. Exercise your vestibulo-ocular reflex (**VOR**) to stabilize your gaze and lock in on your target landing location. 2. Managing moment of inertia by - twisting the upper half of your about a different axis from the lower half - Tuck either arms in to reduce the moment of inertia of the upper half of your body and extend your legs to increase the moment of inertia of the lower half of your body so that you can rotate your upper body while the lower body rotates in the opposite direction. - Extend their front legs and tuck their rear legs so that they can rotate their rear half further while their front half rotates in the opposite direction less. Depending on your initial angular momentum, if any, you may need to perform steps two and three repeatedly to complete a full 180° rotation. Get advice from animals in the pictured examples. Let me know if you are interested in exercises for falling and landing confidence. #climbingcoacheseye #climbingperformancecoaching #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #bouldering」4月17日 16時40分