ペイジー・クラッセンのインスタグラム(paigeclaassen) - 11月1日 04時11分


The Fiend has been high on my list of Front Range Classics, and yesterday I finally made it up there, with fellow stemming aficionados #noinstagrambenny and @arjandekock. This impressive double overhanging dihedral, established by Dan Michael @d___michael is most definitely a gem of the Flatirons. While internet beta speaks of a dyno, foot dyno, and knee bar, I found none of that beta, but made my way to the top by pushing the limits of my negligible flexibility. As a reward, I can barely walk today, but it was totally worth it. A huge shout out to Dan for all the work he's put into route development around Colorado and for the vision to pioneer this perfect corner, at a time when steep sport climbing was still in its infancy. Check my story for an amazing @lasportivana ad featuring Dan on The Fiend.

If this little masterpiece isnt on your tick list - fix it. But consider leaving your expectations of what 5.13c feels like at the climbing gym.

In 2015, Ed Mckeown replaced all the old hardware (original ring bolts, rusted piton, fixed stoppers as the anchor) with stainless steel bolts, donated by @boulderclimbingcommunity and @jasonhaas). See Dan's comment below, with a note about retrobolting.

For the record, there is a cam placement in the middle of the dihedral that I pre-placed. Real sport climber mode 🙄

Photo by @arjandekock

@エディー・バウアー @maximropes @physivantage


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