surflineのインスタグラム(surfline) - 10月20日 12時31分

Back in December 2015, at the peak of his career as a big-wave surfer, @MarkMathewssurf went down on a bomb at Jaws, injuring his shoulder and sidelining him for nine months. Not even a year later, Mathews was surfing a slab in NSW, Australia when tragedy struck again. He severed an artery in his leg, and this time, doctors said he’d never surf again.⁣
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Of course, most people would call it quits after that. But Mathews isn’t like most blokes. The just-released film, 'The Other Side of Fear,' chronicles Mathews’ struggles through injury, to his road to recovery and surfing again, to transitioning to a side hustle as a motivational speaker. (Turns out, speaking to large crowd frightens him more than 50-foot waves.) But as Mathews puts it, “the only way through fear is experience.”⁣
@redbullau @レッドブル
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Hit the link in bio to watch the full film.

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• MarkMathewssurf