surflineのインスタグラム(surfline) - 8月6日 07時15分

Desert Point started as the ultimate feral destination, but it’s become a staple of pro surfer edits over the past few years. This year has been fairly epic so far, but has seen lighter crowds due to Indonesia’s borders being closed. Moroccan big-wave charger @Othochouf happens to already be in Indo, so he managed to luck into this wave during a recent swell.⁣
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“So stoked about this wave,” he said. “I sat out there and waited for like, an hour for this to come to me, and when it did, it came straight to me. I paddled, and on the first bottom turn, felt great. Then, after the first barrel, I saw some of the Canggu groms and the second section was standing up. I was just screaming — I knew it was going to suck and hit the reef perfectly. I saw the third section and it was just the cherry on top. I’ve been dreaming of a wave like for ages — I was actually mentally preparing for it the night before. So when it happened, I was overwhelmed with happiness. I always try to wait my turn and show respect, and the ocean gave it back to me.”⁣
🎥: Pete Frieden

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• Othochouf