スージー・ロウのインスタグラム(susiebubble) - 7月10日 02時03分


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I’d been meaning to visit @18.01London ’s showroom for ages. This isn’t a vintage shop, but a research archive, a “best kept secret” for fashion designers to use as inspiration. To be clear it’s no secret that all designers look at vintage pieces for inspiration. It’s part of the process - to research, re-examine and hopefully recontextualise historical garments into something new
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Founders Dean Thomas and Cristina Rivadulla-Rey left their design director jobs at Burberry 4 years ago to start 18.01, fatigued by the pace of an industry demanding more collections, and wanting to give designers a physical breathing space to look at fashion pieces and be inspired properly
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18.01 offers a bespoke service for clients (can’t name specific brands but think of the top tier ones 😉) researching and sourcing pieces for their exact needs, and curating a selection from a 20,000 piece archive that spans the 1850s to the 1990s and presenting them in a beautiful space in Hoxton for designers to look at up close. Their unique perspective comes from the fact that they were designers to begin with so they understand how the creative process works
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Our conversation over Zoom deviated from an up close look at pieces like a John Galliano for Dior knitwear piece and a beautiful chartreuse Madame Grès gown to the changes in fashion that both Dean and Cristina have observed over the years. How the work environment of a fashion designer - a studio became an office. How fashion designers in big houses gave way to merchandisers and buyers. How creativity basically was sacrificed in favour of profit.
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“People are coming out of this knowing what they want but not wanting what they had before,” said Dean.
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This period of lockdown supposedly has afforded the fashion industry a time to slow down and ignite change for the better. As shows appear to be going full steam ahead albeit digitally, and as Sept approaches, the new normal suddenly feels like the old normal again. This conversation with Dean and Cristina, whilst looking at their incredible pieces (even through Zoom) re-affirms why desire is still so important in fashion and why the creative process needs to be nurtured


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