エミリー・ハリントンさんのインスタグラム写真 - (エミリー・ハリントンInstagram)「#RequiredRewind France 2014 📸 @ladzinski of me on “Tom et Je Ris” (8b+/14a) in the Verdon Gorge. Home to thousands of routes, the limestone canyon is famous for its deep climbing history. I travelled there with @mattsegal @ladzinski @andrewbisharat and @etteloc for a @natgeo project on the history of the place and how it shaped modern-day sport climbing [🎥Link in Profile]  T&J is considered not only one of the best single pitches in the world but also a wild experience unlike any “normal” sport climb. Bolted/FA’d by the legendary Bruno Clement, the route starts at a hanging belay 300ft off the ground in the middle of the wall and follows a series of massive tufas that snake their way to the top of the cliff for 200ft. Like everything in the Verdon, one must rappel from the top, pull the rope, and climb out. The exposure and commitment feels dizzying, and it was all I could focus on the first time I tried.  One try I got so pumped that when grabbed the quickdraw to clip I couldn’t let go with either hand. 25ft runout, death gripping with two hands as my elbows bent out until I melted off and took a horrifying 60+ft whipper. Matt was belaying and didn’t see me come off but heard my scream an entire second before I came flying into view. The fall was safe and I was much more relaxed after, but still didn’t have the required fitness to send.  I drove to another area - the world famous Ceuse - for two weeks where I went on a training rampage. I climbed everyday, lapping routes until I was nauseous with pump. If I was going to have any chance of sending I needed to have better endurance. @adrianballinger came and I convinced him to return to the Verdon with me for one more effort.  We rapped in and I tried but fell. Another try. Fall. I was angry at my inability to put it together when I knew I was capable. I rested, dangling feebly in my harness, defeated. I sighed and retied in. “One more.” Like so many times before and after - I got out of my own way. I climbed perfectly to the top of the cliff and screamed until it echoed off the opposite walls. Euphoria. A small dream completed. That feeling is so fleeting, so evasive, but damn does it feel good.」3月31日 0時11分 - emilyaharrington

エミリー・ハリントンのインスタグラム(emilyaharrington) - 3月31日 00時11分


#RequiredRewind
France 2014 📸 @Keith Ladzinski of me on “Tom et Je Ris” (8b+/14a) in the Verdon Gorge. Home to thousands of routes, the limestone canyon is famous for its deep climbing history. I travelled there with @mattsegal @Keith Ladzinski @andrewbisharat and @etteloc for a @ナショナルジオグラフィック project on the history of the place and how it shaped modern-day sport climbing [🎥Link in Profile]

T&J is considered not only one of the best single pitches in the world but also a wild experience unlike any “normal” sport climb. Bolted/FA’d by the legendary Bruno Clement, the route starts at a hanging belay 300ft off the ground in the middle of the wall and follows a series of massive tufas that snake their way to the top of the cliff for 200ft. Like everything in the Verdon, one must rappel from the top, pull the rope, and climb out. The exposure and commitment feels dizzying, and it was all I could focus on the first time I tried.
One try I got so pumped that when grabbed the quickdraw to clip I couldn’t let go with either hand. 25ft runout, death gripping with two hands as my elbows bent out until I melted off and took a horrifying 60+ft whipper. Matt was belaying and didn’t see me come off but heard my scream an entire second before I came flying into view. The fall was safe and I was much more relaxed after, but still didn’t have the required fitness to send.

I drove to another area - the world famous Ceuse - for two weeks where I went on a training rampage. I climbed everyday, lapping routes until I was nauseous with pump. If I was going to have any chance of sending I needed to have better endurance. @adrianballinger came and I convinced him to return to the Verdon with me for one more effort.

We rapped in and I tried but fell. Another try. Fall. I was angry at my inability to put it together when I knew I was capable. I rested, dangling feebly in my harness, defeated. I sighed and retied in. “One more.” Like so many times before and after - I got out of my own way. I climbed perfectly to the top of the cliff and screamed until it echoed off the opposite walls. Euphoria. A small dream completed. That feeling is so fleeting, so evasive, but damn does it feel good.


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