ニューヨーク・タイムズのインスタグラム(nytimes) - 7月1日 05時01分

@ciaosamin, @nytmag’s new Eat columnist, hates recipes. That may seem like an odd way to start a food column, but she can explain. In 2000, when she was 20, she begged Christopher Lee, the co-chef at Chez Panisse, where she had a job busing tables, to teach her how to cook. As a prerequisite to an apprenticeship, Chris gave her a list of 2 dozen classic cookbooks to carefully read and cook her way through. Most of the food she cooked was mediocre at best — she’s a novice, after all, and made countless mistakes. But when on occasion she succeeded in making something delicious, she figured it was because she’d adhered to the recipe. Good recipes, she thought, were foundational — vital, even — to good cooking. When eventually she began her kitchen apprenticeship, they never used measuring cups and only rarely used thermometers or worried about precise cooking times. Yet of course, everything they made tasted extraordinarily delicious. How did these professional cooks unfailingly produce perfect dishes without recipes, day after day, no matter which cuisine inspired our menus? Chris, who saw @ciaosamin struggling to understand, explained: ‘‘While we use recipes to inspire us, we never abandon our senses. Chiefly, taste. Taste is everything.’’ Visit the link in our profile to get this gazpacho recipe, photographed here by @gentlandhyers, which you can follow — then discard.

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