コンラッド・アンカーのインスタグラム(conrad_anker) - 12月3日 09時12分

3 October 2008 // @renan_ozturk at the Belay of Infinite Patience. ? @jimmy_chin

Meru, Garwhal Himal, India

We set out for the summit. Optimistic that we would make it, we powered on. At this point Renan was getting pummeled by snow and ice from the effort of tunneling though a cornice. Try as I might, to climb as gingerly as possible, the rope and ice tools cut through the snow. Hearing him deal with the misery made me question the sanity of what we do.

Three years later and a day earlier we finished our quest. Were we any better for it? No. Was it worth the stress and anxiety we made our loved ones endure? Most certainly not. This type of climbing is a selfish pursuit. We experience the joy and force our family and friends to endure the pain. Silly, selfish reasoning: "Because it's there." "It's what I am meant to do." "We inspire others." Pretty lame rationalization for putting your life in the line for a thrill.
After we returned Jimmy and Renan set out to build a film about Meru. With the able assistance of Chai, Jimmy's spouse, and the watchful eye of Bob, an editor with an un-jaded view of climbing, they pieced together a documentary. Last night the film made the shortlist for the upcoming Academy award season. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine the Meru story going this far. This is climbing, not some made for prime time contrived adventure. This is my life.
Ever so thankful to the team that made the film and the people like yourself who have been moved by our journey.
In 1992 I visited Baffin Island. Joshua, our snow machine driver, told me as he dropped us off on a patch of ice, "You have nothing better to do." He understood the allure of living in an inhospitable environment. Could I do better things? Yeah sure. Could I do those things better? Probably not. I'm not a surgeon nor am I pilot. Alas, this is what I do. I seek out adventure.

http://www.oscars.org/news/15-documentary-features-advance-2015-oscarr-race

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