Photo by @randyolson | words by @neilshea13 — Noon can lend this place the colors of a furnace. The old volcanoes to the south blacken and sands along the shore burn white and gray as ash or gleam like molten gold. In all directions heaps of rocks and mountains rise without a tree upon them and always the wind bellows, driving the waves into whitecaps and sending birds tumbling sideways. It is a strange place to find so much water, a low place made by shifting plates. Water flows in and doesn’t leave, it cooks down. Even those hard men who, more than a century ago, first put Lake Turkana on the map were not prepared for its truth. They arrived after months of miserable walking and came down to the water seeking relief, for in water, as in certain flames, there is an illusion of coolness, a blue deception. But they found no comfort. Turkana is heavy with salt, fluoride, and the algae that gives it another of its names: Jade Sea. Men who drank it became sick and their animals sipped only when there was nothing better. I know an old man who once spent a year living alone on the lakeshore. He hunted crocodiles at night, wading into the shallows with a rifle. There were enormous fish, too, and those he shot with a pistol. He worried about lions and hippos and he watched daily in the sand for the tracks of bandits called shifta. He slept little, grew thin. It was still a time of giants, and he must have been in love. When I asked what he remembered best about the place he said Bright and then he said Exhausted. It was the most inhuman place he’d ever lived. Years later he understood that to mean it was also the most wonderful. For the last six years, Randy Olson and I have been documenting culture, change, and conflict in the watershed that connects southern Ethiopia and northern Kenya. These Instagram stories are part of our ongoing project, #NGwatershedstories, and they’re linked to our feature article in the August issue of @natgeo magazine. Join us @randyolson and @neilshea13 as we follow water down the desert. #2014 #africa #kenya #laketurkana #jadesea #volcanoes #fishing #water #documentary #reportage #everydayafrica #everydayeverywhere @geneticislands

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Photo by @randyolson | words by @neilshea13 — Noon can lend this place the colors of a furnace. The old volcanoes to the south blacken and sands along the shore burn white and gray as ash or gleam like molten gold. In all directions heaps of rocks and mountains rise without a tree upon them and always the wind bellows, driving the waves into whitecaps and sending birds tumbling sideways. It is a strange place to find so much water, a low place made by shifting plates. Water flows in and doesn’t leave, it cooks down. Even those hard men who, more than a century ago, first put Lake Turkana on the map were not prepared for its truth. They arrived after months of miserable walking and came down to the water seeking relief, for in water, as in certain flames, there is an illusion of coolness, a blue deception. But they found no comfort. Turkana is heavy with salt, fluoride, and the algae that gives it another of its names: Jade Sea. Men who drank it became sick and their animals sipped only when there was nothing better. I know an old man who once spent a year living alone on the lakeshore. He hunted crocodiles at night, wading into the shallows with a rifle. There were enormous fish, too, and those he shot with a pistol. He worried about lions and hippos and he watched daily in the sand for the tracks of bandits called shifta. He slept little, grew thin. It was still a time of giants, and he must have been in love. When I asked what he remembered best about the place he said Bright and then he said Exhausted. It was the most inhuman place he’d ever lived. Years later he understood that to mean it was also the most wonderful.

For the last six years, Randy Olson and I have been documenting culture, change, and conflict in the watershed that connects southern Ethiopia and northern Kenya. These Instagram stories are part of our ongoing project, #NGwatershedstories, and they’re linked to our feature article in the August issue of @ナショナルジオグラフィック magazine. Join us @randyolson and @neilshea13 as we follow water down the desert.

#2014 #africa #kenya #laketurkana #jadesea #volcanoes #fishing #water #documentary #reportage #everydayafrica #everydayeverywhere @geneticislands


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