surflineのインスタグラム(surfline) - 12月31日 01時00分
Waves are wonderful things. Especially when they surprise us. For a few brief hours Monday afternoon, this non-surf spot (trust us: it’s not a surf spot) turned into something resembling the Superbank for a brief window. #GoodToEpic, for sure. “Most of the time, forecasting the surf and the weather in Southern California is benign,” explained Surfline Forecaster Schaler Perry (@sperrysurfline). “The changes in wind and surf quality are steeped in nuance from one region to the next. We don’t get a post-frontal wind switch or blizzards on the beach. But, every once in a long while, we get a helluva low pressure to drop right through the Bight, bringing rain, mountain snow, and heaps of shorter-period NW swell. With that shorter-period energy on top of longer period WNW swell, if you place yourself behind the passing storm you’re likely to see non-spots turn into gold mines as the wind switches offshore.”
📷: @mattkurvin
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2020/12/31