ミーガン・マーチンのインスタグラム(meaganmartin89) - 12月27日 07時04分


I was lucky enough to spend my Christmas Eve bouldering outside under Sugarloaf, a huge granite spire towering over Kyburz. This was the first time I’ve explored any of the bouldering there, usually I’m fearfully following Dave up the many amazing trad routes that Sugarloaf has to offer. A couple of days before, Dave sent me a photo of this awesome slab boulder that hadn’t been climbed in a while. He spent a few hours re-scrubbing off the overgrown moss and when we got to the boulder, I was immediately psyched to see such a beautiful line. Right before I started climbing, an older man walked up and started talking about how psyched he was that someone had cleaned the line off, since it doesn’t see a lot of love. Turns out the man was the legend himself, Paul Crawford. Known to many as one of the legends who has put up numerous trad first ascents in the Tahoe area back in the 70s and 80s, but maybe less known, a huge part of the bouldering development at Sugarloaf. As I pulled on for my first couple of tries, he watched as I made some moves, but struggled to not slip off the small foot holds that were few and far between. He tried to remember the way that he did it years ago, which required a desperate move to the arête. I kept trying, and then bam! I broke the best hold on the boulder. Paul chuckled a little and just said, “ya, that happens, now it’s a little harder.” After figuring out some funky beta, I made it work and got to that arête hold. Now all that was left was to figure out the semi sketchy moves and not bail at the top. It was quite a relief and exciting to finish off the boulder, psyched that it still works after the break. I gotta say, it was a great way to spend Christmas Eve. Get out and try Mavericks, it may be a little harder now, but it’s a pretty sick line, or as Paul Crawford, would say, “it’s totally bitchin.”

@soill @organicclimbing @jtreelife @gnarlynutrition @frictionlabs @alpinestartfoods @craftedenergy


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