surflineのインスタグラム(surfline) - 10月11日 06時59分
From the demolition derbies around the original Dogtown deathtrap, POP Pier, to the lonely, roping rights of Ventura’s California Street; from North Shore burnathons to Maui meditation chambers — Hal Jepsen left no stone unturned in his two-year quest to juxtapose chaos with sublimity, documenting everything that was anything in the world of surf during the early 1970s in the classic film “A Sea For Yourself.” Which evidently included the Big Surf wave machine in Arizona (yeah, they had ‘em way back then), Hobie Cat tow-ats, the Shortboard Revolution’s dysfunctional anorexic phase, and the slow birth of full-neoprene protection.
Naturally, the colder Hal’s crew ventured, the less surfers they encountered. "A Sea For Yourself" is live now, included in your Premium membership – hit the link in bio.
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2020/10/11
