Vogue Italiaのインスタグラム(vogueitalia) - 10月2日 23時43分

Helmut Newton, French Vogue, Rue Aubriot, Paris 1975

This fashion photograph, which is now 35 years old, is so timeless and iconic that it still appears today in a wide variety of contexts. Newton shot the image for the September 1975 issue of French Vogue, where it first appeared as part of a multi-page editorial with photographs of Yves Saint Laurent’s 1975/76 couture collection. They are all night shots, some in color, some in black and white. The model is always pictured alone on the street, as we can rediscover in Newton’s legendary publication, Pages from the Glossies (1998). He shot the night scene on a narrow street in the Marais district of Paris, where he himself lived; his house is visible in the background. The model with the dark, slicked-back hair wears a pant suit by Yves Saint Laurent – a fashion statement that was revolutionary for its time, and which Newton visualized accordingly in this image. Here, too, a certain ambivalence resonates. In the 1970s, the Marais was known for the prostitutes who presented themselves at night to the gaze of their potential clients. The seemingly aloof protagonist in Newton’s photograph is, on the one hand a very modern, fashion-conscious, and self-confident woman. On the other hand, however, viewers may wonder who she is actually waiting for there, standing alone and smoking. With this enigmatic staging, Newton was also likely referencing the paintings of Berlin by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, which depict prostitutes, smoking at night, awaiting their customers at Pariser Platz.
To add a further twist, Newton also took a second picture in Rue Aubriot: one of his infamous “Newton versions”, which was not intended for publication in Vogue but appeared a year later in his first own publication, White Women. There, a female nude model stands alongside the model dressed in the Yves Saint Laurent tuxedo. The androgynous woman in a suit is transformed into a man in our fantasy, a variation of a motif Newton used for numerous other pictures for French Vogue, featuring two female models dressed in various dresses and pant suits.

Vogue Italia’s takeover by Matthias Harder, director of the @HelmutNewtonFoundation.

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