Vogue Italiaのインスタグラム(vogueitalia) - 10月3日 00時28分


Helmut Newton, Self-Portrait in Yva’s Studio, Berlin 1936

Helmut Newton is immediately recognizable in this early self-portrait. At the age of 16, he photographed himself in the studio of the famous Berlin portrait and fashion photographer, Yva, whom he assisted from 1936 to 1938. The studio was located in Schlüterstrasse/corner of Kurfürstendamm, in an upper middle-class neighborhood. However, a difficult and dangerous time began for Jewish photographers. By then, some were already banned from their profession, and others later perished in concentration camps, including Yva.
Newton chose to wear a lab coat in this self-portrait, underscoring his role – helping with retouching, developing film, and other work in the darkroom. He leans against a large studio lamp, his pose casual and confident. At that point, his entire life was still ahead of him – his gaze is directed into the distance, into the future. The studio spotlight visible in the picture is turned off, but another one seems to be directed at Newton as the subject of the picture. In fact, the entire scene is perfectly lit, with an almost cinematic feel. In the left half of the image Newton stands out in his white outfit against the studio’s dark background, while the dark lamp is positioned in front of a lighter background. Later, Newton frequently used dramatic light contrasts to shape the pictorial space of his photographs.
In another self-portrait from the same year, taken at the same location and with a similar visual composition, Newton staged himself quite differently: with hat and coat, camera at the ready – like a roving reporter in the style of the legendary Egon Erwin Kisch. A short time later, he fled Nazi Berlin in 1938 and traveled by ship to Singapore, where he worked as a photojournalist for the Straits Times. However, he did not deliver the required pictures fast enough – it was the first and only time he failed on his path to becoming a famous photographer. Nevertheless, these two very different self-portraits from Berlin mark the start of his international career.

Vogue Italia’s takeover by Matthias Harder, director of the @HelmutNewtonFoundation.


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