ウド・ノイマンのインスタグラム(_udini_) - 6月20日 03時56分
Vail 2019 M4 Crux Observations -
Problem:
finding alignement and putting joints in the optimal position. Wrist Ulnar Flexion when loading needs to be avoided.
(1,2,3)
Not advantageous to be tall. (4)
Two different Solutions:
Flexing arm to improve wrist alignement. (5,7)
Perfect alignement with extended arm. Movement is initiated by leg Extension and shoulder Rotation. (6->8)
#climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #climbingperformancecoaching #bouldering #ideastoimproveyourclimbing
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ali_baratz
Combination of athlete's height, location of placing the right foot on the volume, the pressure on it, feeling and quality of friction are factors which determine the various body positions and various force angels.
Also right arm biceps, right arm anterior deltoid, left arm triceps and left arm posterior deltoid, fatigue, hand sweating and those factors I mentioned above affect the body position and joints angel.
mccollsean
To be fair, @chonjongwon96 had the same wrist position as us, he was just (strong AF) and able to pull through the move. @ogata.yoshiyuki was the only one to grab it differently, and seemingly better. 💪
arnau_climbs
@mccollsean the wrist of @chonjongwon96 doesn't look flexed us yours in the pictures, as @_udini_ says
ali_baratz
@mccollsean your foot is just lower Sean, it can change feeling friction under right hand
arnau_climbs
@ali_baratz his foot is higher than the other competitors, he is in the picture 1
whiteyteeth_amba
Love your style udo ! Collab? DM @whiteyteethclub and let’s get it happening. ✨
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