surflineのインスタグラム(surfline) - 5月4日 06時21分

Long Period vs. Short Period:
What are they? Do they matter? They do.
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A major difference between a long period swell and a short period swell is the swell interval. By definition, swell period/interval is the time required for two successive waves to pass a fixed point, like a buoy, and it is given in seconds. The period/interval of a swell can be crucial in determining where to surf a specific swell, with one beach going off while another just down the road may be close to flat. It’s all about the bathymetry of the ocean floor and the swell period which will decide how much the swell is affected by it.
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To learn more from Surfline founder Sean Collins, hit the link in our bio.
?: @miahklein

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