ジェフリー・ライトのインスタグラム(jfreewright) - 10月11日 15時00分
Yeah, right, you've been surfing a little bit, so you thought you'd check out #Trestles...when it's bombing 8+ft sets. Huh...ok, kook note #1, it's about a mile from the parking lot to the beach, so unless you were born in the ultra-deep bush, drop that long board by the side of the path, turn the fuck around about a half mile into the hike and go back to the car to put some shoes on, so your feet don't bacon fry on this blazing hot asphalt. Yeah and take that wet suit jacket off, too, son - qualifies as hiking gear only if you're also doing an impression of a steamed pork dumpling. Ok, now get down to the beach - your feet'll heal eventually. Now, see those waves rolling in? The ones that look like liquid houses falling toward you? Right, just sit there on the beach and marvel at 'em for a while - that's it - sit there mesmerized. Now think. How you gettin' to the line-up? Oh, you were going to go up the beach and around the break until you realized those boulders in the way over there say otherwise. Well, where's the channel? And when you do get out there, what the fuck are you going to do about waves like double-decker trains chasing at you sideways? Sit there and come up with some answers. Oh, you got some ideas? You're gonna paddle out now, eh? Great, here take a few of these on the noggin for a bit and then turn back to the shore - channel's down the beach some. Oh, you thought this would just be a quickie 'cause you've got a get-together to head to? Well, hike your kookie ass that mile back to the car and get up the highway, son. Come back soon.
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2015/10/11
