エミリー・スワローさんのインスタグラム写真 - (エミリー・スワローInstagram)「Is there something you love that you haven’t made time for in awhile, either because you’re worried you won’t be good at it anymore, or you’re intimidated, or you feel like you need to be “responsible” and tend to other things? That’s how I feel about surfing. I learned in my 30s, and I’ve never been great at it, but I ALWAYS feel good after a session in the ocean, whether I’ve caught ten waves or I’ve wiped out ten times. Sometimes it’s about just sitting with a friend having a chat on our boards. Sometimes I see dolphins (fortunately, I’ve never seen a shark). The ritual of surrendering to the ocean and allowing it to guide me — after all, I’ll never be in control of it — resets my mind, spirit and body and allows me to launch into my day with renewed perspective. That’s why, on #thisisthewaywednesday, I’m super grateful for my friend Tina. We first met through @surfriderla but I haven’t seen her in a few years, and then lo and behold we were in Australia at the same time! She texted me a video of the waves at Sydney’s Manly Beach on Sunday and asked if I wanted to paddle out. I had the immediate reaction of “Ugh. I haven’t surfed in a year. I’m gonna embarrass myself.” But Tina is someone who takes joy in surfing without stressing about how many waves she catches or how anyone else looks out there. So I knew I should say “yes.” It was a pretty windblown and mushy day out there, but daaaaaaang did it feel good to be in the water! I’ve surfed in the US and Europe, and now I can add a third continent to my list. The water was clear and we each managed to catch something on our rentals from @manlysurfboards …I also managed to wipe out rather ungracefully, but recognizing that I can do that and pop back out of the water none the worse for wear is part of the journey. Is there something you haven’t done in awhile that you miss? Do you have a friend who needs encouragement to get back in the habit of something they love? Comment below and tell us something you’re going to pick back up this week, and tag a friend to encourage you! Thanks, @wanderingesq 💛 #thisistheway #surf #surfing #doordonotthereisnotry #surfbuddy #surfrider」9月28日 5時22分