アラーナ・イップさんのインスタグラム写真 - (アラーナ・イップInstagram)「Some of you may have heard my hot mic moment commentating Women’s Boulder Finals at the Innsbruck World Cup. For those who didn’t, before I knew we were on air I expressed a desire to call out the IFSC for dropping athlete BMI testing this year. As an athlete who has personally struggled with body weight issues in the past I want to raise awareness and bring discussion of this topic out into the open. Climbing has a cultural and systemic weight problem. It’s a dirty little non-secret that everyone knows about but no one does much about. In a sport where you are fighting gravity, weight clearly plays a role. That said, for some athletes, the pressure to be as thin as possible becomes unhealthy and some will develop RED-S (Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport), a debilitating syndrome that can have far reaching effects including on bone health, immunity, cardiovascular health, metabolic rate, and menstrual function. This pressure can come from many places and unfortunately sometimes even from coaches and national federations. I worry that athletes on the global stage are negatively influencing young climbers to associate success with extremely low body weight. I want the IFSC as the governing body to take a stand by requiring all licensed athletes to undergo medical screenings to check for RED-S. The IFSC is currently working on a new set of regulations around athlete health. But they need to do more sooner for the benefit of both the athletes and climbers who look up to them. The new regulations will require athletes falling below a BMI threshold (18 for women and 18.5 for men, which is very low) to undergo medical screening to test for RED-S. This includes blood work, bone density testing, and psychological attests. BMI is a far from perfect screening metric (which the IFSC acknowledges), and I believe that every licensed athlete should have to go through RED-S screening in order to be allowed to compete. Continued in comments ⬇️」6月22日 4時16分