アレックス・メゴスさんのインスタグラム写真 - (アレックス・メゴスInstagram)「A short but great trip to Ticino with @yannick_flohe and @hungrylatvian came to an end. After doing Dreamtime, I set my sights on the famous @dave_graham_ test piece "The Story of Two Worlds" on the other side of the boulder. There are various videos online from lots of different climbers, all theoretically climbing the same boulder and claiming the same grade- 8C. It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning HOW things are climbed. This issue was recently brought to my attention after the discussion about @yannick_flohe 's "dab" on Dreamtime. Climbing and especially bouldering is all about the HOW. Even more surprising though was the fact that people don't really seem to care too much about the HOW, although it is supposed to be the most important part of climbing/bouldering in some people's eyes.  After watching all those videos of "The Story of two Worlds", I noticed there are huge differences. Some use a kneepad, although the FA was done without. Most sit down to start, some don't. One climber (@dai_koyamada) started lower than all the others and didn't use a kneepad. And in the end they all climbed the same 8C? That thought seems very alienating to me.  Yes, climbing is a funny sport and it's not only about getting to the top. It's HOW you get to the top. I would wish for more awareness within the climbing community, that there are differences in ethics, styles and grades. We, as climbers, should be more open about it and communicate HOW we have done certain climbs. Ticking a grade shouldn't be the most important part of climbing. Climbing is so much more than that.  There are differences in HOW things get climbed and we should acknowledge those.  Glad I managed an ascent of "The Story of two Worlds" on my last day. I valued climbing it without a kneepad and I did (barely). I'd say 8C seems about right. A little too much fridge hugging for my taste though 😂.   @patagonia_climb @redbullgermany @goretexeu @tenayaclimbing @sterlingrope @cafekraft_nuernberg @dmm_wales @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower   Pic @hungrylatvian」12月23日 22時42分 - alexandermegos

アレックス・メゴスのインスタグラム(alexandermegos) - 12月23日 22時42分


A short but great trip to Ticino with @yannick_flohe and @hungrylatvian came to an end. After doing Dreamtime, I set my sights on the famous @デイブ・グラハム test piece "The Story of Two Worlds" on the other side of the boulder. There are various videos online from lots of different climbers, all theoretically climbing the same boulder and claiming the same grade- 8C. It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning HOW things are climbed. This issue was recently brought to my attention after the discussion about @yannick_flohe 's "dab" on Dreamtime. Climbing and especially bouldering is all about the HOW. Even more surprising though was the fact that people don't really seem to care too much about the HOW, although it is supposed to be the most important part of climbing/bouldering in some people's eyes.
After watching all those videos of "The Story of two Worlds", I noticed there are huge differences. Some use a kneepad, although the FA was done without. Most sit down to start, some don't. One climber (@小山田大) started lower than all the others and didn't use a kneepad. And in the end they all climbed the same 8C? That thought seems very alienating to me.
Yes, climbing is a funny sport and it's not only about getting to the top. It's HOW you get to the top. I would wish for more awareness within the climbing community, that there are differences in ethics, styles and grades. We, as climbers, should be more open about it and communicate HOW we have done certain climbs. Ticking a grade shouldn't be the most important part of climbing. Climbing is so much more than that.
There are differences in HOW things get climbed and we should acknowledge those.
Glad I managed an ascent of "The Story of two Worlds" on my last day. I valued climbing it without a kneepad and I did (barely). I'd say 8C seems about right. A little too much fridge hugging for my taste though 😂.

@patagonia_climb @redbullgermany @goretexeu @tenayaclimbing @sterlingrope @cafekraft_nuernberg @dmm_wales @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower

Pic @hungrylatvian


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