ウド・ノイマンさんのインスタグラム動画 - (ウド・ノイマンInstagram)「Recently @kinetic_movement shared his observations regarding one split second of Janja Garnbret’s body position while climbing during the quali of Studio Bloc Masters 2019. To learn something from his observations, let’s pick: "Skull rotate Left - eyes on target hold“ What does it mean and how should it inform your training? Your head and our gaze directs your movements, your body reflexively follows your eyes and stretches more than it would have otherwise. What do you look at, when do you look, how do you look and how long do you look has huge consequences for movement effectiveness (e.g., accuracy, consistency, balance) as well as efficiency (e.g., muscular activity and force production). Knowing all this, not practicing Head Target Locks in your training seems to be a oversight. Exercises without deliberate head position, gaze direction and aim will not prepare you for complex climbing situations. @kinetic_movement will be presenting @climbingcoachesconference 2020 - very much looking forward to that! Excerpt taken from #ideastoimproveyourclimbing , link in my Bio! #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #mobility #gazebehaviour #climbingperformancecoaching」5月27日 6時38分