Vogue Italiaのインスタグラム(vogueitalia) - 11月9日 21時58分

‘This is not a story about clothes’ ? ‘Now, more than a month later, the stir of the revolution, which quickly turned into a media punch-up, still hasn’t died down. Because this is not a story about clothes. It is a feuilleton about one of today’s few spheres – fashion – that manages to intersect money, power, artistic expression, cultural influence, the creation of collective imaginations in just a few years, and even with meritocratic careers like few other sectors, at least in Europe. That’s why we’re writing about this episode of upheaval, and without being experts in the field of soap operas. Slimane’s runway of discontent was titled “Paris La Nuit”, with a programme-manifesto titled “Journal Nocturne de la Jeunesse Parisienne”. In other words, it couldn’t have been a cleaner break with Celine’s past. In her ten years in Paris, Phoebe Philo – a working woman right from her name, which sounds like a personal organiser – reassured consciences with her refined jumpsuits and handbags, overcoats and double trench coats, basically a tailor’s arsenal for a very well-to-do global working girl with a cashmere trim. Philo had success with critics and sales (actually more bags than clothes). Like Prada in the early days, she moulded the style of minimalist-intellectual ladies (see the brainwave or coup de grâce of featuring Joan Didion in Celine’s ad campaign). But in late September – in the show that changed everything, introduced by a drum roll from France’s Republican Guard – the Philofiles instead found themselves cast as a crowd of sharp, Slimane-style adolescents dressed in impeccable, essentially black little dresses, slinkily adorning their night-time outings.’ Keep reading the article by @_michimas about the new @Celine era by #HediSlimane @hedislimane in our November Issue and today on vogue.it ?

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