ジョシュ・ブローリンのインスタグラム(joshbrolin) - 7月27日 04時05分

When I was a kid, 11 years old or so, I’d spend every night, after an evening of surfing, with my board on my bed, practicing my pop ups. Or, if there were no waves, I’d go to my friends pool, and while he held the board, run toward the pool full force and jump on the board to imagine myself actually surfing some amazing Hawaiian ten foot wave, just like I’d obsessed over in the magazines nightly before I went to sleep. To get a new board, to smell that powder still on there, to imagine how it was going to work in the water as all the groms like Matt Mondragon and Jason Sears and I were being trekked around from contest to contest by Tommy Curren’s mom, Jeannine, is, by far, the best adolescent memories I have.
It’s nice to know, when it comes down to being stoked, that we all still regress immediately right to that most inspired, most heavenly imagined place. Have a nice day. ? #doyou @lairdhamiltonsurf @gabbyreece @xptlife
#Repost @lairdhamiltonsurf #lairdlegs
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No matter how old you are always excited to get a new board of any kind. Thank you Terry Chung for the new big wave SUP foil board. Now all I need are the waves. I may have said that a few times in my life.

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