ケリー・スレーターのインスタグラム(kellyslater) - 5月10日 12時14分


From memory, this was March 1st, 2000, a day or two after my Nana passed away. @saxboucher sent me this print from a San Diego news clipping about the Mavericks event (sorry I don't remember the photog). The day before this, I recovered from the flu and was really weak. So when I got to the beach that morning for the event and heard #RichardSchmidt saying it was the biggest he'd ever surfed Mavz, I was kinda terrified. I had the first alternate paddle out with me not thinking I would surf but when I got to the lineup it looked pretty manageable. On my first wave I got steamrolled and had a really scary hold down. I swore I wouldn't fall again after that. I made it to the 6-man semi-finals along with #JayMoriarity and we rode a few waves together. That was the last time I got to surf with or see Jay. Most people, myself included, thought he beat me in that heat so I went to the beach and took off my wetsuit thinking I was done for the day but had to put my wet gear back on when I heard I made the finals. #Flea won the event for the second or third time in a row and the rest of us didn't stand a chance. I placed a distant 2nd. But I didn't fall again all day which felt like a win! #ThatPlaceIsTerrifying #SurfedThereThreeTimesNearlyDrownedTwice


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2014/5/10

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