クリス・シャーマさんのインスタグラム写真 - (クリス・シャーマInstagram)「“JUMBO PUMPING LOVE” is NOT the name of the hardest rock climb in America. It could have been. So how does a climb gets its name?   This story started over 3 decades ago, when a  striking, but faint line of pockets - viewed through my binoculars - eventually became one of the most difficult and famous rock climbs in the world.   On a cold November day in 1991, perched near the summit of remote Clark Mountain, I embarked on a top down inspection of what was the most king line I ever found. Wild swings into the wall to place bolts revealed section after section of V-hard boulder problems. My psyche was high as I slowly and methodically continued down, placing bolts.   It became abundantly clear to me that this entire climb would go, but at a standard much more difficult than the hardest grade in 1991. I thought maybe this would be possible as a multi pitch climb. I tried it, was unable to make it to the halfway anchors, so I set my sights on the other king line to the left which I named Jumbo Pumping Hate (5.14a).  Fast forward to 2008, when Chris Sharma redpointed my original king line project. In true Sharma fashion, he brought it to a new level by climbing the entire wall in one very long pitch. He named this “Jumbo Love” and graded it 5.15b. It stood as the hardest and proudest sport climb in America for 14 years. There were a few repeats by America’s strongest sport climbers. In 2013, I belayed Sharma on a hard start (bolted by Jorge Visser) to Jumbo Love. This was like adding a 5.14b, with no rest, to a long 5.15b. I tried to do the math… how hard could this be?  The direct start to Jumbo Love remained un-redpointed until October 2022, when Seb Bouin linked it all together. So how does a route get its name? What would Seb name it? Do you honor the history in your name as Sharma did with Jumbo Love, or do you call it something completely different? Seb messaged Chris and me. With a little back and forth, he decided on “Suprême Jumbo Love” (5.15c).  Photos tagged: Suprême 2022 Suprême in 2013, 2 photos  JPH in the 90s  #climbinghistory #originofclimbingroutenames #clarkmountain」11月1日 2時13分 - chris_sharma

クリス・シャーマのインスタグラム(chris_sharma) - 11月1日 02時13分


“JUMBO PUMPING LOVE” is NOT the name of the hardest rock climb in America. It could have been. So how does a climb gets its name?

This story started over 3 decades ago, when a striking, but faint line of pockets - viewed through my binoculars - eventually became one of the most difficult and famous rock climbs in the world.

On a cold November day in 1991, perched near the summit of remote Clark Mountain, I embarked on a top down inspection of what was the most king line I ever found. Wild swings into the wall to place bolts revealed section after section of V-hard boulder problems. My psyche was high as I slowly and methodically continued down, placing bolts.

It became abundantly clear to me that this entire climb would go, but at a standard much more difficult than the hardest grade in 1991. I thought maybe this would be possible as a multi pitch climb. I tried it, was unable to make it to the halfway anchors, so I set my sights on the other king line to the left which I named Jumbo Pumping Hate (5.14a).

Fast forward to 2008, when Chris Sharma redpointed my original king line project. In true Sharma fashion, he brought it to a new level by climbing the entire wall in one very long pitch. He named this “Jumbo Love” and graded it 5.15b. It stood as the hardest and proudest sport climb in America for 14 years. There were a few repeats by America’s strongest sport climbers. In 2013, I belayed Sharma on a hard start (bolted by Jorge Visser) to Jumbo Love. This was like adding a 5.14b, with no rest, to a long 5.15b. I tried to do the math… how hard could this be?

The direct start to Jumbo Love remained un-redpointed until October 2022, when Seb Bouin linked it all together. So how does a route get its name? What would Seb name it? Do you honor the history in your name as Sharma did with Jumbo Love, or do you call it something completely different? Seb messaged Chris and me. With a little back and forth, he decided on “Suprême Jumbo Love” (5.15c).

Photos tagged:
Suprême 2022
Suprême in 2013, 2 photos
JPH in the 90s

#climbinghistory #originofclimbingroutenames #clarkmountain


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