スージー・ロウのインスタグラム(susiebubble) - 2月24日 22時18分


I’ve been less tuned into shows this season mainly because my brain is fatigued by screens. Or looking at clothes on screen. Not being able to see fabrics clearly. Or reading into inspirations that are hard to lean into when you can’t quite remember when was the last time you SAW things IRL beyond the realm of a screen or a park green
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Big round of applause for a wholly digi LFW and the designers who a) were inspired enough to create collections under lockdown and b) got them made and shot
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But there were parts that were lacking. Films that showcased pure feeling rather than clothes felt fitting earlier in the pandemic. This time round, when I saw glitchy video ramblings or obscured clothes, for me, there was a disconnect
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So take it back to basics. Walk, side-view, close-up. @mollygoddard ’s ensembles could be seen from all angles. Her prom dresses that were meant to be almost spiky and ugly, were in fact the opposite. On screen, it was like the saturation and detail settings were notched up.
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@yuhanwangyuhan ’s video was short but memorable. Warped angles and dreamy close-ups of her Tang Dynasty inspired painterly fabrics. Lovely
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If in the case of @artschool_london you’re gonna convey sentiment, then let the casting roar under a spotlight
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Or when narrative genuinely moved or intrigued you (and the clothes were given equal billing). @Saul.nash ’s coming-out kiss in amongst a gang. @ahlluwalia’s brotherhood swaying in unison. Newcomer @linusleonardsson ’s weird but wonderful spoken word over zany prints
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And if you’re gonna go surreal, make it count. You instantly saw surrealism and Man Ray in @biancasaunders_ film or @danshanstudio ’s heads in the clouds, literally stitched onto garments.
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@fashion_east also uncomplicated matters with a backstage and FOH look at all their designers. In particular, just focusing on the bust/midriff area of @nensidojaka ’s delicately taut body line dresses was effective.
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Or just fittings in a studio. Sit, adjust, walk, IGTV. @danielwfletcher
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Should fashion weeks change for good, then what’s digitally native should make clothes the centre of the conversation.


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2021/2/24

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