スージー・ロウのインスタグラム(susiebubble) - 1月26日 19時25分


Throwback to this time last year when I was mesmerised in @シャネル ‘s #ChanelHauteCouture ateliers on Rue Cambon, writing a piece for @exit_magazine
Loved speaking to the atelier premières and their take on working with @virginieviard
Judging by the teasers filmed by Anton Corbijn the latest SS21 HC collection will once again be atelier focused... unveiled today at 1pm GMT
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[The distinction between Chanel under Lagerfeld and now under Viard is pronounced but only tangible once you speak to the premières as they incidentally chime in unison with one another. Madame Jacqueline is the longest serving, having worked at Chanel for over twenty years, and is in charge of the main tailleur work room, where the linings of Chanel’s signature suits are being picked over and reworked (couture is as much about the secret undetectable details as it is about the outward appearance).

“It’s like an exchange and Virginie really shares her ideas for the collection with us, and so there’s a dialogue,” says Madame Jacqueline. Madame Cécile also has two decades of experience at Chanel and heads up one of the flou ateliers, where a tiered Victorian lace blouse and a girlish black tulle slip dress embroidered with dandelions are nearing completion. “Karl was very precise with his sketches down to the number of buttons,” says Madame Cécile. “With Virginie, she speaks directly more about her vision. It’s not about having a preference. It’s just a different way of working. With Karl, it was about following that sketch exactly, and with Virginie, it’s more fluid.”

And the dialogue goes on. The woman-to-woman exchange between Viard and the premieres will shape-shift. As a mega maison, Chanel’s output is ever demanding, as haute couture segues into ready to wear, and then cruise and so on and so forth. The ateliers will be powering through client orders, but they’re already looking to the next collection, and the next vision. As Madame Jacqueline puts it, “It’s always a laboratory here.”]
Photography Chris Tubbs


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2021/1/26

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