Surf Magazineのインスタグラム(stab) - 1月12日 14時30分

“I was helping a little girl, and she started screaming, ‘I can't breathe. I can't breathe. Am I going to die?'" says one of our surfer-heroes from the great Central California capsize. Link in bio to hear from more of the (anonymous, on account of the "no-surfing" law) locals who assisted in the rescue mission.

Credit: @myallsnaps @totallytubularmag

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• mike_cochran