ウド・ノイマンのインスタグラム(_udini_) - 10月22日 02時12分

3 phases of one-arm campussing. (Video is recorded with 30p, so one second is 30 frames.)
1. Flight time (red, ca. 5 frames), the duration of time in which the climber is not in contact with the surfaces. In traditional climbing, going from hold to hold is considered the actual move. Here it is just the tip of the iceberg and the result of the 2 phases before.
2. Passive / Eccentric / absorption / loading phase (purple, ca. 13 frames) – when the elastic properties of the muscle fibers, as well as of the ligaments, bones, tendons, and fascia are loaded.
3. Active / Concentric / lift (green, ca. 12 frames)  – when stored elastic energy is released and muscle forces generated by muscle contractions provide COG lift.
For a proper analyses, we would need to look into the relationship of COG lift by hip and legs and upper body action, as in my last post!
#climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #momentum #onearmcampusing #klettertraining

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