hurleyのインスタグラム(hurley) - 4月25日 06時52分


“I never did make it to the bottom of the wave.” – @kai_lenny
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Last year, @mikecoots snapped this image of Kai on the biggest wave he’s ever ridden at Jaws.
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According to Kai, the wave drew so forcefully off the reef that he had to lean as hard as he could to get down the face – even with the added speed of a tow board and the whip of a ski.
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“I looked to my left and saw a barrel so big I realized I probably wouldn’t keep all my limbs if I fell.The spit exploding sounded like a shotgun, and when I finally kicked out, the only thing I wanted was another one. I needed to be deeper!”
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A big wave. A little belief. The ride of a lifetime. ⚡️


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