アレックス・パッチシオのインスタグラム(alex_puccio89) - 4月24日 01時21分


Last day best day!!! So psyched to have climbed “Heritage” V14/ 8B+ in Val Bavona Switzerland 🇨🇭!!! 😆 I have been pretty out of shape for me and still have a lot of work to do to get back where I was, this is why I didn’t try Heritage for the first few weeks of my trip. I then decided to try it because it was always on my list of climbs I wanted to do and my friends were most psyched for this area. Well I definitely surprised myself when I was falling grabbing the hold at the lip on day 3! This happens 2 times this day with one try on the hold. The last move isn’t suppose to be that hard, but at my height you can’t use the normal left foot hold that makes the move not so bad. Instead I had to use a really high, and too high for me even, foot that made me be in this weird balled up position where then I had to punch to the last hold before the top out.
The weather was highs of 17-23C / 62-73F everyday with sun and not much wind at all and the boulder sits down in a area that doesn’t really get air flow. After the “colder” day where I got really close I thought it would happen next day, but the weather got sooo hot and really humid! I was having trouble just staying on the holds and not greasing off.
Finally on the last day It because a bit breezy and had some cloud coverage. The high was still at 17-18C/ 62-64F, But the breeze made it way less humid!
For my warm up I decided to do the top half one time and then I sat for a few minutes to chill. I looked at the climb and had a special feeling. I didn’t want to overthink it or psych myself out, but I had a feeling where I knew it was time. For my second try I decided to go from the start and the magic happened! I was standing on top of the boulder!!! 😄😆😁🙏 Thank you @westmountainmedia , @ダニエル・ウッズ and @robinoleary for coming out all those days I didn’t send for support. I definitely got frustrated from time to time when the first few moves felt hard because of the humidity. 😂
@petzl_official @scarpana @frictionlabs

#uhamikakuto #yes #psyched #happy #climb


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