Lee Majors, 5.14+ (📸 @neilson.ben) 💎 The route breaks down into two or three sections: the intro snaps you into gear with a tensiony V10 followed by two hero jumps and a kneebar sequence to exit the roof. After an almost no hands kneebar, the route follows the lip of the cave with quite a few foot tricks; toe hook, heel hook, heel toe cam, la mae (is that how you spell it?), this sequence has it all. This takes you straight into the final boulder. I couldn't dream of a better sequence to guard the chains. A big left hand throw over a mini roof opens your body fully to the left with your feet carrying on behind you. Swinging your feet back on takes precision, and engaging a right drop knee takes some serious hamstring, but it's necessary in order to match the left hand. Loaded like a spring, launch for the clipping jug, and clip off the one hand deadhang (key beta). This final boulder probably clocks in at V9. It can be tough to grade a route, especially when you're a boulderer, and the route is kinda perfectly your style, and harder than anything else you've ever tried. In the end I was able to outrun the pump, and the 60 feet of climbing felt similar to executing a boulder problem. My understanding of route grades versus my own ability isn't good enough to grade this beauty. That being said, if you are planning to test yourself against this magnificent cave, be ready for some 5.14c or d effort. @prAna @petzl_official @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @gnarlynutrition

nathaniel.colemanさん(@nathaniel.coleman)が投稿した動画 -

ナサニエル・コールマンのインスタグラム(nathaniel.coleman) - 12月4日 02時28分


Lee Majors, 5.14+ (📸 @neilson.ben)
💎
The route breaks down into two or three sections: the intro snaps you into gear with a tensiony V10 followed by two hero jumps and a kneebar sequence to exit the roof. After an almost no hands kneebar, the route follows the lip of the cave with quite a few foot tricks; toe hook, heel hook, heel toe cam, la mae (is that how you spell it?), this sequence has it all. This takes you straight into the final boulder. I couldn't dream of a better sequence to guard the chains. A big left hand throw over a mini roof opens your body fully to the left with your feet carrying on behind you. Swinging your feet back on takes precision, and engaging a right drop knee takes some serious hamstring, but it's necessary in order to match the left hand. Loaded like a spring, launch for the clipping jug, and clip off the one hand deadhang (key beta). This final boulder probably clocks in at V9.
It can be tough to grade a route, especially when you're a boulderer, and the route is kinda perfectly your style, and harder than anything else you've ever tried. In the end I was able to outrun the pump, and the 60 feet of climbing felt similar to executing a boulder problem. My understanding of route grades versus my own ability isn't good enough to grade this beauty. That being said, if you are planning to test yourself against this magnificent cave, be ready for some 5.14c or d effort.

@prAna @petzl_official @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @gnarlynutrition


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