Surf Magazineのインスタグラム(stab) - 10月30日 06時25分

“It was weird how long he @jackrobinson_official could surf,” @shanedorian tells Stab on his recent trip to West Oz. “He’d surf forever. He would barely eat before he’d surf, too. It wasn’t like, Oh, I’m gonna go have a long session, I’m gonna just fuel up for a session. He’d wake up, look at it, ‘Aye, looks pretty good, mate, I’m out there…’ Nine hours later he’d come back in.” Hit the link in our bio to watch “Desert Hilton” a short film by @ビラボン.

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