So my finger has been bothering me quite a bit recently. Just before heading out to Japan I felt so good on the wall. I felt confident and strong and like myself again. However, next time I climbed my finger was painful. The pain was unfamiliar and concerning, it was not the pain I had previously. I worked closely with my physio over the World Cups in Japan and the US. The pain in my finger was severe but there were no sign of weakness. I decided to compete for a number of reasons. I did not feel that I was putting my finger at risk. I knew I could not perform at my best. I would need to hold back but I really wanted to be out there on the mat. • After the WC I stayed out in the US with hopes to train for the upcoming lead season. However, the pain in my finger did not get better, it got worse and I was left feeling frustrated and agitated. • Upon returning home my team and I made the decision to get an scan and seek further consultation. The ultrasound showed the my original injury has healed nicely. Which I have to admit I was relieved to find out, especially after all the effort that went in to fixing it up. The new pain was from a reactive tendon. Which is exactly what both of my physios (and my coach) had diagnosed. From what I can gather it is an unhappy tendon that gets swollen and stubborn and is annoying to fix. • After much discussion and thought we decided to have a cortisone injection. A light dose to help settle things down, reduce the swelling around the tendon and allow me to heal and recover as best possible. There is debate about cortisone. I appreciate there are risks involved but I trust my team and believe they are just as passionate about me coming back stronger as I am. • I’ve been asked if I came back to climbing too soon after my pulley injury. I do not believe that is the case. Especially after seeing how well the pulley has healed. Had I taken another few months to return this could still have happened. There was a lot of damage in my hand and this injury is not a surprise. • So I’m back to playing the come back game again. I can’t say how long I’ll be out. All I can say is that I won’t let this stop me. I’m far from done yet.

shaunacoxseyさん(@shaunacoxsey)が投稿した動画 -

シャウナ・コックジーのインスタグラム(shaunacoxsey) - 6月23日 00時29分


So my finger has been bothering me quite a bit recently. Just before heading out to Japan I felt so good on the wall. I felt confident and strong and like myself again. However, next time I climbed my finger was painful. The pain was unfamiliar and concerning, it was not the pain I had previously. I worked closely with my physio over the World Cups in Japan and the US. The pain in my finger was severe but there were no sign of weakness. I decided to compete for a number of reasons. I did not feel that I was putting my finger at risk. I knew I could not perform at my best. I would need to hold back but I really wanted to be out there on the mat. •
After the WC I stayed out in the US with hopes to train for the upcoming lead season. However, the pain in my finger did not get better, it got worse and I was left feeling frustrated and agitated. •
Upon returning home my team and I made the decision to get an scan and seek further consultation. The ultrasound showed the my original injury has healed nicely. Which I have to admit I was relieved to find out, especially after all the effort that went in to fixing it up. The new pain was from a reactive tendon. Which is exactly what both of my physios (and my coach) had diagnosed. From what I can gather it is an unhappy tendon that gets swollen and stubborn and is annoying to fix. •
After much discussion and thought we decided to have a cortisone injection. A light dose to help settle things down, reduce the swelling around the tendon and allow me to heal and recover as best possible. There is debate about cortisone. I appreciate there are risks involved but I trust my team and believe they are just as passionate about me coming back stronger as I am. •
I’ve been asked if I came back to climbing too soon after my pulley injury. I do not believe that is the case. Especially after seeing how well the pulley has healed. Had I taken another few months to return this could still have happened. There was a lot of damage in my hand and this injury is not a surprise.

So I’m back to playing the come back game again. I can’t say how long I’ll be out. All I can say is that I won’t let this stop me. I’m far from done yet.


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