Flashback to when I dedicated several years of my life trying to get waves at Pipeline on my bodyboard. Funny I surfed out there for a couple years before even paddling to the main takeoff spot. I remember the first time I did, nervously making my way to where the heavies sat with my head hung humbly low hoping no one would tell me to beat it. I saw @kainoamcgee and sat by him as he was an uncle to all of us. A massive perfect a-frame popped up and Kainoa was yelling for another guy to go and when he pussed out and pulled back Kainoa sent him in to the beach. He then looked at me and said, “No wasted waves” I said back to him kinda pathetically begging, “I’ll go if you let me” haha. After that a bomb popped up at second reef and Kainoa looked at me and said, “Go!” I was scared shitless as the wave looked kinda closed out but I knew if I didn’t go I missed my shot so I went. As I made the drop and came into first reef the whole wave closed out all the way to Ehukai. I straightened out and the lip landed straight to my back blowing me what felt like 15 feet in the air. As I landed I expected to get destroyed but the wave must have broke so hard the energy bounced over me and it was actually kinda minor. I popped up laughing with gratitude that all was ok knowing I took my first real step in proving myself with the boys. Thank you @kainoamcgee for all the guidance and encouragement over the years ... mad love and respect for you Uncle | photo @josephlibby #shityouneverforget ps: Gotta give mad love to Burks too for being another Uncle ... but no way he’s on Instagram ?

robbiecrawfordさん(@robbiecrawford)が投稿した動画 -

Robbie Crawfordのインスタグラム(robbiecrawford) - 3月24日 03時26分


Flashback to when I dedicated several years of my life trying to get waves at Pipeline on my bodyboard. Funny I surfed out there for a couple years before even paddling to the main takeoff spot. I remember the first time I did, nervously making my way to where the heavies sat with my head hung humbly low hoping no one would tell me to beat it. I saw @kainoamcgee and sat by him as he was an uncle to all of us. A massive perfect a-frame popped up and Kainoa was yelling for another guy to go and when he pussed out and pulled back Kainoa sent him in to the beach. He then looked at me and said, “No wasted waves” I said back to him kinda pathetically begging, “I’ll go if you let me” haha. After that a bomb popped up at second reef and Kainoa looked at me and said, “Go!” I was scared shitless as the wave looked kinda closed out but I knew if I didn’t go I missed my shot so I went. As I made the drop and came into first reef the whole wave closed out all the way to Ehukai. I straightened out and the lip landed straight to my back blowing me what felt like 15 feet in the air. As I landed I expected to get destroyed but the wave must have broke so hard the energy bounced over me and it was actually kinda minor. I popped up laughing with gratitude that all was ok knowing I took my first real step in proving myself with the boys. Thank you @kainoamcgee for all the guidance and encouragement over the years ... mad love and respect for you Uncle | photo @josephlibby #shityouneverforget ps: Gotta give mad love to Burks too for being another Uncle ... but no way he’s on Instagram ?


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