ジョシュ・ブローリンのインスタグラム(joshbrolin) - 9月26日 11時09分

You've waited. You've been waiting. The sea is calm, almost meditative. A feeling overcomes you of pure peace. You're exactly where you want to be. There are no phones, no nagging, nobody whispering to you all those things you haven't done, no insects scrambling for your attention. It's just you and the power of a nature that nourishes every emptiness you've been carrying around. You disappear inside your thoughts, all those things that have made you happy and knowing that this will always be one of those moments. You're almost blinded by the peace of it. You're taken for a fairytale ride of magic surf-dust and heavenly soarings along clouds of school sketches of perfectly penciled waves, strokes of offshore spraying right off the page.
Then there is a low roar, a muffled motor mindlessly approaching. You blink out of your revere. You tilt you head 20 degrees, and as you focus your eyes you suddenly are watching an Asian horror film and the main nemesis is a monstrously grotesque overgrown mass of water. It's a tsunami from out of nowhere encroaching on your very awake life. Your heart rips out of your chest and dives so deep you are never to see it again. Your brain paralyses and you long for anyone to give you a recently unwanted human task: something tactile, anything onshore. You've dreamt about this and woke up saturated in your own sweat and terror. This is what you've been waiting for and what you've secretly hoped would never arrive. The wave monster is upon you. You are alone. You know the one behind it is bigger and that there is no way you will be able to paddle hard enough to summit to the other side of it. This wave, this one upon you now, is life and death all wrapped into one: a gift or a curse. Go or be gone. Go or be gone. Make up your mind, now.

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