アレックス・メゴスのインスタグラム(alexandermegos) - 2月24日 02時36分

This picture is one of my all time favorites! The story behind it is just too good! We sat off from our portaledges at 250m off the ground, worked our way up to the last 2 pitches of the route at 550m. So around 10 pitches. The last 2 pitches were the unknown ones, for sure hard though. The portaledge on the pic was from @rogerschaeli from 10 years ago when he bolted the route. It was at the beginning of the last 2 pitches, so our base. I'm set off to check out the first of the 2. It took me 1,5h to get to the anchor and an all in 2nd try to do it. The last pitch was 12m long and @rogerschaeli said he remembered it as easy. It turned out to be 8b+ slab and it took me another 1,5h to figure out the beta. All in all we had no water since beginning of the day (8h ago) just beer. So the guys did muesli and coffee with beer instead of water...
I was the secret weapon, so I got the last quarter bottle of water. After breakfast we as well had no food left and it was Sunday. So @rogerschaeli rappelled down 600m to the ground to get good. The rest of us rappelled to the portaledges at 250m. We saw @rogerschaeli down on the road shouting something. We thought he wanted to tell us he's got salmon. What he was saying though was: "I forgot my jumars!" So no way for him to get up to us alone! Our solution was to throw him down his gear in a backpack with some old fixed ropes as insulation. Damn that pack hit the ground hard from 250m...
So the pic was after sending the 2 last hard pitches and on the decent to our portaledges, thirsty, hungry, sunburned and very tired.
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