Dazed Magazineのインスタグラム(dazed) - 1月23日 22時32分

GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY AW16:

After last season’s sports hall, it was the Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord, a beautiful, run down looking venue in the north of Paris that Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy chose to stage his AW16 show in. Considering the collection's theme – ‘Save and Survive’, a classical idiom in orthodox Russian – it was an appropriate venue; since its establishment in the 1870s, the theatre has had a famously chequered history. Passing through fifteen artistic directors in its first decade, it spent a century being bounced between owners, none of whom could afford the proper maintenance to keep it open. Yet it remains – a little battered, its gilt faded, chandeliers missing, but still, surviving.

It was this message – save and survive – that Rubchinskiy said he wanted to impart to the generation who are following his work, something that was symbolised by his gang of young, street cast models, flown in to Paris from all over the world. With an audience seated on the theatre's stage rather than the stalls, the models appeared through a cloud of smoke, with hair shaved into close buzzcuts and dyed a variety of colours. They wore garments that riffed on a plethora of subcultural references, from punk to 90s skate culture and skinheads – like the ones Rubchinskiy said hung out at the TaMtAm club in St Petersburg in the early 90s. From Russian rave culture to the art of Alexander Rodchenko, Rubchinskiy has always had an element of cultural archiving in his work – this season it seemed like he was preserving the way teenagers had forged geography-defying subcultures against the most unlikely of backdrops. – words @emmahopeall
READ THE FULL REPORT at dazeddigital.com [link in bio] ? @chloeledrezen @gosharubchinskiy #AW16 #PFW

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