Mariano Di Vaioのインスタグラム(marianodivaio) - 6月29日 17時59分

Sometime when they ask me I find hard to explain why I'm so addicted to surfing, but how about explaining surfing in terms of the incredible joy and excitement that comes from riding waves, from being in the ocean, from feeling the natural environment, from being right in the moment, and also the human desire for mastery that pushes surfers through all kinds of hardship (fear, injuries, near drowning, pecking order) in order to experience not only the most challenging waves and exhilarating rides, but fulfill their true physical /mental potential.?? #SurfLife #addiction

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